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Niacinamide: Gives you back that B-B-Bounce

NIACINAMIDE (VIT B3)

One of my favourite skin care ingredients! This water-soluble vitamin is readily absorbed into the skin and has a whole host of beneficial effects on our skin’s appearance.

I remember first being blown away by this humble vitamin at Fletcher Brown Skin Clinic. We treated a LOT of clients with acne, and often would get great results that would eventually (frustratingly) plateau. Anecdotally some of the therapist's noticed significant improvements after introducing a new Niacinamide based serum into their client's homecare. From then on it became part of our core acne treatment plan with exceptional results! Now this was almost 7 years ago and at the time it was a relatively unknown ingredient. These days it is riding a well deserved wave of popularity.It is now a popular, relatively cheap and effective ingredient to use, and is generally very well tolerated by most skin types.  

EFFECT ON SKIN:

Inhibits sebum production = decrease excess oil / reduce acne

Pigment-uptake inhibitor = reduce the skin cells ability to hold onto excess melanin for a skin brightening effect

Tyrosinase inhibitor = another action to reduce hyperpigmentation / brighten the skin

Anti-inflammatory = decreases skin redness, appearance of rosacea and has an anti-aging effect

Stimulation of epidermal skin barrier lipids (fats) = moisturising & repairing to the skin barrier which in turn reduces redness and appearance of rosacea

Increases collagen production = antiwrinkle effect

Who should use it? Those with inflammatory skin conditions such as acne & rosacea can really benefit from a routine using Niacinamide (check with your skin specialist first), as can dry, aging & sensitised skin.

Can it be used with other ingedients? A cosmeceutical formula will often blend suitable actives and beneficial ingredients to strengthen and boost results… other ingredients such as retinoids, salicylic acid, resveratrol and some peptides are combined with niacinamide for additional skincare benefits or a more targeted function.

Favourite Products containing Niacinamide? Aspect ExtremeB17 Serum and Epicure Oil-Control Hydrator are both exceptional for inflammatory skin conditions, with active levels of Niacinamide for benefical skin changes. The Ordinary also does a budget Niacinamide + HA Serum that I often recommend for teens with mild acne, who have a tight budget and ofcourse no antiaging concerns. FYI - The Ordinary serum is NOT recommended with skin redness and rosacea but that is for another day... because my family and I are about to go out for dinner for the first time since lockdown! Yippeee!  

Kate xx

 

 

References:

Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice, First Edition. Edited by Patricia K. Farris. 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Ltd    

Farris P, Zeichner J, Berson D. Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skin Brightening/Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Containing Retinol 0.5%, Niacinamide, Hexylresorcinol, and Resveratrol. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Jul 1;15(7):863-8. PMID: 27391637.

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